Farm Week: May 20-24

There is nothing like a week of humidity and heavy downpours to really reinforce the importance of weather to someone who works entirely outdoors. When one is essentially camping, that importance becomes magnified: every trip to the bathroom or the kitchen sink involves planning. When those downpours are not just downpours, but veer into the territory of lightning, hail, and tornado warnings, the camper does not have a basement to hide out in. Instead, one must take cover, say, under a nearby concrete bridge. Hypothetically, that might have happened this week to some hypothetical semi-campers.

On the hottest day yet, with a humidity so thick you could cut it with the dullest of better knives, we transplanted about an acre with of beets, zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, and cucumbers. Before making a beeline for a dip in the stream, we covered about a third of them to protect them from potentially damaging downpours. Had we heard anything about hail, we probably would have tried to cover the rest of them, but the damage wasn't as bad as it could have been. The plants that were still small had less surface area to damage - the large leaves of older, larger plants were a bit holey after the hail. We had taken advantage of the heat to move our not-so-chicky chickens out to the pasture, which meant that we had to go rescue them after the huge storm. The rain continued all week and into the weekend, so we and the chickens are itching to get outside next week, when the weather looks much much more enjoyable. Meanwhile, I hope the riverbank holds up!

Thinking about: weather patterns, Bluths, good breeding

Eating: fresh-picked greens(!), farro salad, avocado and freshest egg breakfast tacos

Reading: Kelly Klober's Dirt Hog, Michael Ruhlman's Ratio, Jane Smith's The Garden of Invention: Luther Burbank and the Business of Breeding Plants

Farm Week: May 13-18, 2013

Another week of extreme temperature changes, from an overnight frost at the beginning of the week, to high seventies and sunny on Thursday. Last weekend brought some rain and some dramatic fog and winds to the valley, but we had a great weekend nonetheless. We stewed up a mean old rooster into jerk chicken stew, sat around a bonfire, and I even brewed up some beer. Unfortunately, the mad temperature swings this week made a consistent fermentation temperature impossible - hopefully the beer didn't suffer too much!

The chicks turned two weeks old, and are hale and feisty as ever. They're getting close to full feathers, at which point they'll leave the brooder for the great outdoors! We also ordered our next batch of chicks - this time fifty instead of twenty-five! We have two outdoor "chicken tractors" at our disposal, so we'll be able to get a nice rhythm going this summer with batches of chicks coming in every three weeks. That means that eventually we'll have batches going out every three weeks, which will be the harder part.

We opened up our largest block of field yet this week, preparing for a large wave of transplanting and direct seeding. The first step in that process was mowing the cover crop, which Dan accomplishes by driving his bush hog backwards over it, his reasoning being that with such a tall crop, the wheel tracks would leave a large portion of the rye intact. After Dan C. mowed, we hooked up the chisel plow and I did my first big plowing job. The nice thing about plowing up a large field is that you can drive more in figure-eights or loops instead of doing lots of tight little turnarounds after each pass. I had a great time, and it was oddly relaxing. The next day's task of rototilling that same swath was not as relaxing, however. The machine itself is louder, and is much more sensitive to rocky soil -  it was much slower, bumpier, and louder than plowing. I didn't have to worry so much about straight lines (as when rototilling and punching beds), the purpose being to mix the remains of the rye into the soil for a faster digestion.

Thinking about: pork possibilities, blooming, organic matter

Eating: jerk chicken and sweet potato stew, homemade meatballs and risotto

Reading: Dave Eggers' A Hologram for the King, Kelly Klober's Dirt Hog

On Being a Planner

I have always been a reader of books, a collector of facts, and a maker of lists. A quick look through the detritus of my desk in college would reveal crumpled half-sheets of paper filled with to-do lists partially crossed off. When staring hundreds of pages of reading and hundreds of words to write, I would always start by making a list. Often, I start a to-do list with things I have already finished, just to be able to cross a few things off. Evidence of recent productivity seems to assure me that future productivity is possible. On a larger scale, planning comforts me. When Caroline and I would fight when we were little, often we would make up during a weekly forest preserve hike, walking a ahead of our parents and planning grand things for our shared room that never came to any fruition. It didn't matter that these excitedly discussed plans never materialized - the planning of it was enough to bring about a sisterly cease-fire. When I was living in Chicago after college, working two jobs and saving every penny, list-making kept me sane. Every night, I would count the cash I had brought home from my waitressing job and stash it in my bank (the cigar box under my bed), noting the total in a ledger. In another small notebook, I kept careful track of my weekly spending, taking any overspending out of next week's allowance. Every few weeks, I would check and see whether I was on track with my saving - my planned budget for weeks spent in Florence and Bologna providing incentive for the late nights and early mornings all summer.

Now, some of those habits have solidified, and I have fought against other inclinations. I still keep careful track of all of my monthly spending and saving. I keep a list of books I've been meaning to read, possible topics for future blog posts, things I should look up next time I have internet. On the other hand, because I am at heart someone who wants all of the information possible before I commit to something, I have started to force myself to not have plans occasionally. Visiting a new place without having looked up everything to see and do there has been a new experience for me recently. Taking a long bike ride without a route planned out beforehand. Passing a Sunday without a to-do list. Getting in a car with friends and without plans.

Last week, the first of our periodical visits to other farms in the area through the CRAFT program caused me to reflect on my penchant for planning anew. The topic was cover crops and compost, and the farmer whose farm we were visiting (Paul) was describing the different pairs of cover crops he uses, focusing on two sets in particular. Both (ideally) get planted around Labor Day. The oats and peas grow all fall, but are "winter kill," meaning that the cold weather kills them off completely. Winter rye and vetch sprout in the fall, then lay dormant all winter, before rapid growth in the spring. If you till rye in too early, it will keep growing where it can, becoming a nuisance. Therefore, where you plan to cut in early spring crops, like onions, early brassicas, or potatoes, the winter-kill combo makes much more sense. That way, you're getting the full benefit of a cover crop without having to fight with it throughout the growing season. This requires knowing where all your crops are going next year before Labor Day every year, which requires quite a bit of planning. Dan doesn't follow a strict crop rotation schedule, preferring to decide on the spot where to plant each crop, relying on his memory to make sure, for example, that the onions are far enough away from last year's onion field or that brassicas are similarly more mobile than the flea beetles. He seeds each field in winter rye as the harvest finishes, choosing to battle the rye as necessary in the early plantings in order to grow as much new organic matter as possible. Paul, on the other hand, knows a full six months ahead of his first tilling what he's going to put where and sows his cover crops accordingly. Of course, Paul's farm is very different that Dan's in a few significant ways, such as a wildly different soil type and levels of mechanization. Paul's menagerie of tractor implements makes his style of cover cropping feasible.

Soil types and equipment aside, this discussion of cover crops has made me reflect on what kind of farmer I will be in this respect. All signs point to an abundance of planning! I think my list-making transposes directly to the daily chore-list of farming, my personal budgeting becomes enterprise budgets, and my compulsive reading becomes continuing education. My penchant (with Caroline) for rearranging furniture will no doubt become a love of planning crop rotations, cover crop timing, and seeding schedules. Dan's ability to improvise and think on the fly is admirable, but so is Paul's ability to create systems and stick with them. The farm fits the farmer, and judging by my track record so far, my farm might skew a bit more towards Paul's. I doubt I'll stop planning anytime soon, and I have a few years of daydream-planning ahead of me when it comes to my future farm. Now if only I could get into the habit of keeping my room neat and tidy . . .

Farm Week: May 6-10, 2013

This week brought the full range of spring weather, including some much-needed rainfall. The trees are waking up, and the view up the hillsides in all directions from our little valley becomes greener every day. The winter rye is over knee-high, and the smell of apple blossoms has caused me to stop moving and breathe deeply at least once per day.

Now a little over a week old, our broiler chicks are bigger and more fully feathered every time we feed them. They're still small and cute, and they still have a few weeks to go before they go outside. We decided not to buy organic feed because the price was prohibitively high, but we did find some conventional feed without all the unnecessary antibiotics. If the farm were certified organic and we were selling them formally to the CSA members, we might have made the decision to shell out for the organic feed and price the birds accordingly higher. Instead of going for the omnipresent fast-growing hybrid Cornish Cross, we opted for Freedom Rangers, which is a breed known for its hardiness and its foraging, which makes it the perfect bird for pasture-raising.

This week brought a bit more transplanting, and lots of cultivation. The same amount of transplanting that would have made us tired and sore a few weeks ago is now just a matter of course. The first round of spring carrots also needed to be thinned - Dan chooses to over-seed these notoriously bad germinators to avoid long gaps between carrots so we all sat down in a pathway and weeded and thinned the carrots to 1-1.5 inches. It is very slow-going, monotonous, and miniscule work. I loved it. We've done some hand-hoeing, which always makes for some great conversation as we move down the rows. The carrots also provoked hours of interesting conversation, but for some reason I have a skill for this particular task, and after awhile I was too far ahead to take part. So I put on some old-timey fiddle and banjo music and somehow my fingers moved even faster.

Another highlight this week was the first CRAFT visit of the season. At first twice and later once per month, all the apprentices from sustainable farms in the area get out of work early on a Monday and gather on one of the participating farms for a two-hour workshop followed by a potluck dinner. This week's topic was cover crops and compost, and I'm working on an essay about the thoughts the tour and workshop provoked. For now I'll say that I'm really looking forward to these visits all season. Even besides the workshops, I think it's immensely instructive just to see how different farms are set up and how they operate. The potluck was great, too - good food and good conversation, and I'm looking forward to many more.

Thinking about: bare feet in the soil, wide-brimmed hats, smells of spring

Eating: Pita with homemade hummus, avocado, apple, and homemade sauerkraut

Reading: Michael Ruhlman's The Making of a Chef, Dave Eggers' A Hologram for the King

Farm Week: April 29 - May 3, 2013

This week brought warm, sunny days and cool, frosty mornings. No hint of rain, and the beds are becoming more and more dusty as we cultivate. The rye cover crop is knee-high, the peach trees are in bloom, and the hillsides are slowly changing color as the trees bud and then leaf out.

We spent three days on our knees on black plastic, punching holes and putting in first onion and then strawberries, thousands and thousands of each. Toward the end of each day, we went loopy, fingers sore from punching through the plastic. But to stand at the end of the day with piles of empty black trays and rows upon rows of little onion soldiers at attention really gives you a sense that you've done something. Something that you thankfully only have to do once a year.

Towards the end of the week, we got our potatoes and leeks in the ground, side by side in a field we're now calling the soup field. We planted our potatoes by hand, laying them out in two staggered rows on the beds and walking over them to punch them into the earth. As the morning grew warmer, we took off our shoes and socks and used our bare feet to punch the potatoes down.

In another sign of spring, our 26 Freedom Ranger chicks arrived in the mail on Thursday, less than 36 hours since they hatched over in Pennsylvania. In a bit of an ironic twist, the galvanized tub in which we set up their brooder sits right under the killing cones nailed to the wall inside the barn. Nine weeks or so from now, they'll come full circle, but right now they are cute little cheeping bundles of spring.

Thinking about: sunscreen, life cycles, cover crop trade-offs

Eating: local grass-fed burgers, purple rice and borlotti beans with roasted root vegetables, balsamic and sweet potato risotto

Reading: The Best American Short Stories 2004, Jeffrey Eugenides' The Marriage Plot

Book Report: Restoration Agriculture

At the MOSES conference in February, there was one workshop that stood out in a few ways: the speaker was extremely well-spoken, the standing-room-only audience was riveted, there was a standing ovation at the end, and his book sold out in the bookstore within the hour. The speaker was Mark Shepard and his book is Restoration Agriculture: Real-World Permaculture for Farmers, which I read over the course of the last few weeks. The book takes permaculture principles and agroforestry and applies them to the temperate climate of southwestern Wisconsin. As I'll discuss, the book contains some problematic premises, but the overall message is a valuable and useful one.

That overall message is that it is possible to grow our staple crops in temperate perennial systems, restoring to some extent the natural North American biomes and reversing years of soil degradation in the process. To these ends, he advocates the use of permaculture principles adapted to the temperate zones (permaculture was originally developed in Australia), such as precise berm and swale systems and highly diverse interplanting to harness maximum possible solar energy and minimize water run-off. He makes the valid point that an acre of corn that is only "knee high by the Fourth of July" has already missed out on plenty of solar energy. Trees, on the other hand, are photosynthesizing from much earlier in the spring and much later in the fall. Also, as opposed to a flat one-level cornfield, the multi-storied forest system is taking in solar energy from all angles and through multiple layers of foliage. Besides the enhanced solar intake of a complex forest system, it is also more adapted to absorb rainfall: the multi-layered canopy disrupts the impact of falling water, turning even the heaviest rainstorm into a gentle mist by the time it hits the ground. He claims that with the use of well-planned berms and swales, ponds, and a multi-story canopy, he can capture every drop of rain that falls on his property, cutting erosion and runoff to zero.

There are some great ideas that Shepard puts forth in the book that I think could be applicable to anyone interested in more sustainable food systems. Let's take the example of planting a chestnut grove for nut production. The orthodox way would be planting trees thirty feet apart and nursing each one into maturity. Shepard points out that chestnut trees don't need those full thirty feet for quite a few years, so instead, plant a few times more trees than you need, much closer together. Then, instead of working to protect each and every sapling, you neglect them, coming back every few years to thin them by taking out the damaged, stunted, lower-yielding, or diseased trees. By the time you have full-sized producing trees, you've also harvested tons of hardwood from the same acreage and you're left with only the best trees. At another point, he cites a fact he learned in grade school - that if you plant 1,000 apple seeds, only one of them will produce edible apples. Instead of saying let's not plant any apple seeds, he says why not plant thousands?

Shepard calls the bluff of lots of modern permaculture enthusiasts, who plant shiny urban or suburban plots of fruits, but then buy rice and beans that are the result of annual agriculture. This is where my conflict sets in with Shepard. While permaculture at the quarter acre scale does not make much impact on the global scale, Shepard on the other hand makes a demand of complete abdication of the annual food system. He declares the annual food system unsustainable, which is true in the sense that you are forever taking more from the land than you are giving back. I am not, however, prepared to give up my rice and beans and annual grains. Shepard might say that I'm not sufficiently dedicated to the true sustainability of perennial agriculture. I'd agree that I'm just not ready for his particular revolution. I'm not quite ready to give up my bread, pasta, and popcorn.

He takes this disdain of annual agriculture to the length that he claims that every ancient civilization fell because their habit of annual agriculture depleted the land and therefor the ability of metropolises to provide for themselves. I do find in this reading, however, a bit of a logical fallacy. Civilization, as many people see it, was enabled by the very fact of annual agriculture. That annual agriculture will again be the very demise of civilization is perhaps too perfect an ironic twist even for me. He is right that the conventional model of commodity crops is not sustainable in the least, but I do not go so far in my thinking to abandon them entirely. I do believe that a large-scale agricultural change is necessary for the survival of the human race, but I do think that we may be able to work annual agriculture into the rotation in a very conservative way.

One last facet of his book that bothered me is his point that on the last census, over 80% of all farmers claimed that they did not make 100% of their income from on-farm activities. While I don't dispute this point, I do take issue with the conclusions he draws from this fact. Instead of saying that we must reform the system, he says that we must instead must not get down on ourselves as farmers that we must work off-farm jobs and patch together income streams to sustain a family. He doesn't blink twice suggesting that we convert our very diet from annual grains to perennial nuts and fruits, yet the arguably less complicated task of changing the subsidy system and the accompanying legislation and entering a time where we pay the true price for our food. His choice of battle seems a bit arbitrary.

In reading the book, I became enchanted with the idea of a food forest, but it just added another facet to my "dream farm" instead of replacing the annual agriculture. He did start me down a path away from conventional orcharding, and I think that with the proper planning and attention to detail, one could design a forest system that works hand-in-hand with a forest-pastured pork operation, raising heritage hogs on the cast-offs of fruit and nut production. I'm glad I took the plunge and bought the book, as it has certainly given me plenty to think about as I go further down the path toward my own farm. It certainly is a good thing I don't take any one book too seriously, or I would have nothing left to eat!

Read this if: you are a landowner looking for a low-input way to do some reforestation; you have so far been unimpressed by attempts at viable permaculture; you need another facet of food production to feel guilty about supporting.

Farm Week: April 22-26, 2013

This week saw some sunburn-inducing highs and some frosty morning lows. We continued to transplant more brassicas (cabbages, kales, chard, choi, etc) and greens. The wind whipped through the valley sometimes upwards of 20 mph, and we eventually grew more skilled at wrestling with the long sheets of remay that are currently protecting many beds of plants from the morning frosts and the emerging flea beetles.

A little less than two weeks since our first round of transplanting and direct-seeding, we lifted the remay for the first round of cultivation. Depending on the crop and the bed layout, we cultivated at a few different levels: with the tractor, with a hoe, or with our hands. The tractor can cultivate under the wheel tracks, and in between 2-row crops or on either side of our 1-row peas. We follow the tractor with hoes or with our hands, scratching at weeds and weed threads in the crop row. In the direct-seeded 6-row crops like spinach or salad mix, we sat down in the wheel tracks and scooted down the rows, cultivating with our hands; in the turnips we did the same thing, while also thinning to 2-inch spacing. There is something wonderful about spending hours upon hours with your hands connected to the earth.

Another instant happiness-creator this week was the many whiffs of tomato leaves as we transplanted the first round of indeterminate tomato plants into the hoop houses. Summer is coming, and I know because the tomato plants are telling me so. Something that will also only get better as the summer comes was the season's first outdoor shower. So far, we've been showering up at the farmhouse, but on Wednesday it seemed warm enough to shower outside. As the air temperature increases and we figure out our water pressure and heater situation, the showers will become exponentially more enjoyable, but so far I'm a fan of the outdoor shower.

In the past week, I've seen countless songbirds, half a dozen wild turkeys, half a dozen deer, a few raccoons, and a porcupine, some at very close range. One week until I'm the co-parent of 25 Freedom Ranger chicks, so we're going to get their brooder and feed all ready this weekend! I see the sixties in the forecast all next week! Life is good and only getting better in the country. 

Thinking about: the tomato leaf smell, weed threads, temperature-dependent buzzing

Eating: pita with homemade garlic hummus and vegetables, bacon and egg sandwiches on sourdough, rigatoni with homemade puttanesca, homebrewed IPA

Reading: Mark Shepard's Restoration Agriculture, Harvey Ussery's The Small-Scale Poultry Flock

Book Report: Eating Animals

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Jonathan Safran Foer, best known for his fiction, wrote a book about his feelings about eating meat. As a former vegetarian, more recent meat appreciator, and a current farmer, I had some warring reactions to his arguments. The book is predicated on the fact that Foer and his wife, both sometimes-vegetarians, were trying to decide whether to raise their impending first child eating meat or not. That question brought him on a three-year journey into the realities of factory farming, commercial fishing and fish farming, and the moral questions of killing an animal for meat. While not much of the information he cited about factory farming was new to me, it never really loses its shock value on repetition. While I have not been re-converted to vegetarianism, the book did push me a little farther down the path I''d already chosen: to eat meat exclusively when I raise it myself, or know intimately where it was raised. Because of my current living situation and choice of career, this will not require the great lengths and expense it would for a city-dweller, but I'll have to work on giving up deli meats.

The other effect this book had on me was squash any remaining desire I had to force myself to like seafood. Between various allergies that keep popping up (shrimp, lobster, crab, and more?), and my distaste for many kinds of fish, the highly destructive fishing practices and disgusting fish farm conditions he describes really put the nail in the coffin of any future fish-eating. Finally, the book did make me think more about the moral questions of killing animals for food, no matter how humanely they were raised. Next week, twenty-five chicks arrive for Dan C. and I, which means that ten weeks later I'll be grappling firsthand with killing animals for meat. At the scale I'm dealing with, I have much more control over a good life and good death than many of the farmers he describes in his book. Larger producers send their animals off to a slaughterhouse or abbatoir, where they lose control of the process. The horrors of large factory slaughterhouses that Foer describes are completely avoidable at the small scale, but that doesn't mean it won't be a bit horrifying in its own way.

Overall, the book was well-written and compelling. Its tone does shift from intense curiosity at the beginning to spirited lecturing towards the end, which makes for a less enjoyable read - although that was probably the point.

Read this if: you need to be strengthened in your vegetarianism; you eat commercial meat with a clear conscience; you are curious why your Purdue chicken is so cheap compared to an organic humanely-raised heritage bird.